La Ciudad Amurallada

from Polly's Garden-http://gramafolly.blogspot.com

George Harrison's son and master sound recorder/producer George Martin uncovered a hidden guitar riff deeply embedded in the original recording of "Here Comes the Sun," one of my all-time favorite songs. Every time I hear that song, I think of a trip I took in high school to Florida, sitting by my grandparent's pool in Leisureville, soaking in the sun... the song instantly makes me feel warm and at ease.

Of course, I hear the song- and its missing riff- this morning and remember that I'll be back in the sun in a little over 30 days.  I can't wait. I started scouting the destinations that this cruise will be sailing to in anticipation of all of the sun this girl desires.

San Juan, Puerto Rico's average temperature is 79 degrees, with March being its dryest month (it only rains about 11 days/31 that month), and there is 8.8 hours/day on average of sunshine. WIN. We're only docked in Puerto Rico for 7 hours, and that's assuming we get up and get the first shuttle off the cruise ship at 7am. Not much time for a port call, but meh. And, apparently, Maureen's friend will be in Puerto Rico that day on vacation. Yay for new people (for me)! So, what do we do with our 7 whole hours on the island?

A quick Google of "La Ciudad Amurallada (the walled city)" search turns up LOTS of stores for shopping, including a Coach store with "deeper than mainland discounts." Oh boy... beyond shopping (please and thank you!) are beaches, historical churches, and many, MANY different types of food to try. Discovering Puerto Rico has a handy online guide about how to make the most of your "trip layovers" while in Puerto Rico. They give ideas for travelers who are only in the city for 2-6 hours, which fit our plans easily. The guide assumes you're coming to/from the airport, but the airport is only 8 miles away (but some websites say that the 8 miles out = 45 minutes in a taxi, at $16/one way). Here are the site's top recommendations:

• Pinones: boardwalk and food kiosks that line Rd 187 that serve



Traditional Mofong- its fun to say! Try it!




• Empanadillas- stuffed bread/pastry
• Alcapurrias-  doughy mixture of mashed up tubers and root vegetables that grow on the island surrounding a center of heavily seasoned meat. Cooks spoon the meat into the center, roll the alcapurria into a distinctive peg shape and deep fry it for several minutes. 
• Mofong: fried green plantains  which is mashed together in a pilón with broth, garlic, olive oil, and pork cracklings or bits of bacon. It is often filled with vegetables, chicken, crab, shrimp, or beef and is often served with fried meat and chicken broth soup
• Lechon: Its is cooked by skewering the entire pig, entrails removed, on a large stick and cooking it in a pit filled with charcoal. The pig is placed over the charcoal, and the stick or rod it is attached to is turned in a rotisserie action. The pig is roasted on all sides for several hours until done. The process of cooking and basting usually results in making the pork skin crisp and is a distinctive feature of the dish
• Isla Verde and Balneario Carolina beaches
• Tour old San Juan:  take a taxi to either San Cristobel Fort or El Morro Fort. Once there, take a quick tour of the fort and then head down through the streets of Old San Juan. There are great self-guided walking tours of Old San Juan, which I found (in Europe) is just my style.
• Luquillo Beach (60 minute drive out- ehhh maybe not)
• El Yunque rainforest (again, 60 minutes out) hike one of the marked trails or take a tour with one of the rainforest rangers. You can also swim at one of the waterfalls!

Of course, Royal Caribbean sets up excursions around San Juan for travelers to enjoy. The San Juan excursions offered are:

• Bacardi Rum Distillery tour ($31)
• Bioluminescent Bay Kayak Adventure ($105)
• Caguas City Tour and Botanical Garden ($80)
• Carabali ATV adventure ($126)
• Carabali Horseback Ride ($99)
• El Yunque Rainforest Hike ($45- 5 hour trip, involves hike, nature lesson, travel to/from site)
• Segway tour ($96- not gonna lie, I kind of want to drive a Segway. But not for $96)
• Old and New San Juan City Tour ($39- it's a "scenic drive" with a narrated tour. You don't get out of the vehicle)
• Old San Juan Walking Tour ($49- through San Felipe del Morrow Castle, entry to museums, etc covered)
• Rain forest nature walk ($99 for a 5 hour hike??)
• San Juan Beaches By Bike Tour ($79 for 3.5 hour bike tour. My legs would fall off.)
• Fortress of San Juan ($41)
• Zipline ($131- HELL.NO.)

I'm all for the walking tours, but again, I can do it for free and at my own pace-- right?  Old San Juan is about 7 blocks, but people on the interwebs say it is a LOT of ground to cover in a short period of time. It looks like San Juan will be more about exploring than sunbathing- which is fine, since the sun will still be shining when I get back on the boat at 2pm..!